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As the period progressed the wing collar gradually dominated the other options.Cuffs, conversely, were always to be attached when worn with evening dress.Having a collar that was separate from the shirt was not only more efficient for laundering but was also more economical as it allowed the soiled collar to be replaced without having to buy an entirely new shirt.Initially manufactured by hand and constructed of cotton, paper or heavily starched linen, its popularity quickly spread to the rest of the world, particularly among the growing class of office-workers that became known as white collar workers.When the dinner jacket first gained popularity in the 1880s it was worn with the full-dress shirt and accessories due to its limited role as an informal replacement for the tailcoat.
(In open-back models the studs were purely decorative.) The fact that this style of dress shirt was manufactured into the 1960s attests to its effectiveness.
New to this era were soft pleated dress shirts with French cuffs which were appropriate only with the dinner jacket, although some mavericks adopted them for full dress.
By the turn of the century the most popular collar styles whether attached or detachable were turndown, poke (i.e. A 1903 correct dress chart in dictated the former style for wear with the informal dinner jacket and the latter two models for the tailcoat.
Notably, the very frugality that endeared this invention to the masses was frowned upon by polite society who generally maintained a preference for attached collars on their dress shirts.
Sleeve cuffs were also available in detachable celluloid styles but were not as popular on formal shirts as were their collar counterparts.
Detachable collars were the height of fashion by 1862 when machines were invented to mass produce them by laminating linen onto thick cardboard stock creating a material known as .